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Fairy shrimps (spring gillfoot) Fairy shrimps (spring gillfoot) are very common. Fairy shrimps are gilled crustaceans that have been found on our planet since prehistoric times in salt lakes, drying waters or polar waters.Only animals from Asia or America that live in a water temperature of 20-30°C are suitable for keeping in an aquarium. These species (Branchinella thailandensis and Dendrocephalus brasiliensis) live in waters that regularly dry out and are only filled with rainwater. The water is therefore very soft. Appearance The animals have 11 pairs of leaf feet. These leaf-shaped limbs serve not only for locomotion but also for breathing – which has led to the term "gilled-foot crustacean". There are sometimes minor differences in colour. They are found in colours ranging from orange to reddish-brown and may have greenish to bluish hues at the joints and at the boundaries of the segments.Both sexes have two short thread-like antennae. However, another pair of antennae differ in both shape and according to sex. Males have lobe-shaped appendages that can be curled up. Adult females are mainly distinguished by the ventrally located brood sacs, which are filled with eggs, and the ends of the female's tail are translucently light. Systematics Phylum: Arthropoda / ArthropodsSubphylum: Crustacea / CrustaceansClass: Anostraca – Gill-feetFamily: BranchipodidaeGenus: Branchipus / Eubranchipus /Tanymastix etc. Care Depending on the species, fairy shrimps live for 6-12 weeks and the size of adult animals varies from 1-3cm.Can Triops and fairy shrimps be kept together?yes, they can Aquarium size: Initially, a Faunarium box size 230 x 155 x 170 mm is quite sufficient From a body length of 1.5cm, they can be gradually accustomed to larger tanks Basic lighting: Sunlight or aquarium lighting is sufficientAeration: An air pump with a stone and very little air flow is sufficient for keepingSetup:Only water and breeding substrate in the breeding/starting container. A little fine aquarium sand can be used as substrate (but this is not absolutely necessary)Decorations can be used, but are only for our eyes and not of importance to the fairy shrimps.Fairy shrimps are free-swimmers – so they need enough free swimming space in the breeding container.If the animals swim around freely, you can also add a little aquarium moss to the water. To ensure the water is soft, it is best to use 2/3 distilled water and 1/3 mineral water (non-carbonated).Water temperature: Fluctuations in temperature of +/- 5° C are not dramatic.The ideal breeding temperature is 26°.Start:The larvae only hatch when they are completely surrounded by water. Therefore, place the eggs on adhesive tape and then put this in the water – so the eggs are not washed to the edge and always remain in contact with water.After 1-3 days the larvae hatch. The larvae grow quickly and can reach sexual maturity after up to 40 moults in one to two weeks. The males hold the females with their jaw pincers shortly before and also during mating. After mating, the eggs develop in the egg sacs on the females’ abdomens. They fall to the bottom of the water and can survive for several years of prolonged drought in the substrate.When the fairy shrimps have died, the water can be drained off and the substrate with the eggs left completely dry. The larvae can only hatch again if the eggs were completely dry.Once this is dried out, a new batch can be started.If no substrate is used, you can also siphon off the eggs with a thin hose. Let the water containing the eggs run through a fine net or a coffee filter – this way you can collect the eggs.Important: The animals do not tolerate large water changes. If fairy shrimps are to be moved to a larger home, it is best to place the animals together with the breeding water into the new home or tank and slowly fill up the container with conditioned tap water. Feeding The larvae are fed from the 3rd day after hatching.The larvae can be fed with algae powder or JBL Artemio fluid. For all animal husbandry: Children must be guided, supervised and monitored by their parents. Children must learn that an animal has its own needs and habits and they must respect this. Parents should be aware that they are responsible for the animal. For questions and problems our trained team at Zoo Roco is at your disposal. They can advise you professionally on all matters.

Herkunftsgebiet: Südostasien (Malaysia, Thailand, Burma, Vietnam), lnseln des indoaustralischen Archipels. Soziales Verhalten: Friedlich, allerdings fast langweilig mit zunehmendem Alter. Jungtiere sind sehr possierlich. Mehrere Männchen sollten nicht in einem Aquarium zusammen gehalten werden. Hälterungsbedingungen: Jede Art von Einrichtung. Die Vergesellschaftung mit sehr robusten Arten verdrängt diese Art in die Ecken. Ein Fisch, der fast nicht totzukriegen ist. Er wird allerdings sehr scheu, wenn er als ausgewachsener Fisch in ein anderes, fremdes Becken umgesetzt wird; pH 6 - 8,8; Härte 5 - 35° dGH. Zucht: Wasserspiegel absenken auf 15 cm. Es wird ein Schaumnest gebaut. Nach dem Ablaichen sollte das Weibchen entfernt werden, da das Männchen bösartig sein kann. Besonderheiten: Einer der härtesten Aquarienfische überhaupt. Frisst auch Planarien (Scheibenwürmer). Auf dem Foto rechts oben ist die Zuchtform T. trichopterus ,,cosby" (Marmorierter Fadenfisch) abgebildet, darunter die Normalfärbung. Eine gelb-rosa albinotische Farbform ist immer häufiger im Handel zu habenQuellennachweis: Mergus Atlas Band 1Für Fragen und Probleme steht Ihnen unser ausgebildetes Team im Zoo Roco zur Verfügung. Es kann Sie in allen Fragen fachgerecht beraten.

Red-eyed MoenkhausiaArea of originCommon in rivers, floodplains and slow-flowing areas of South America. Prefers clear, slightly acidic to neutral waters with plants and root areas.SpeciesThe genus Moenkhausia comprises over 60 species, many of which look very similar. The species frequently offered in the pet trade includeMoenkhausia sanctaefilomenae (red-eye tetra)Moenkhausia pittieri (diamond tetra)Moenkhausia costaeSocial behaviourVery peaceful Ideal for community tanks. Lively swimming behaviour, lots of movement. Forms loose shoals. Can occasionally nibble curiously at very long fins (e.g. gourami), but rarely aggressive.Keeping conditionsPlenty of free swimming space. Densely planted edge zones. Subdued light possible due to floating plants. Stable water values. Good filtration, moderate current. Cover recommended - bouncyBreedingPossible, but not easy. Free spawners. Eggs are scattered and sink to the bottom. Parents eat spawn → separate breeding tank required. Dark substrate prevents light damage to eggs. Feed fry with infusoria after hatching, later with Artemia naupliiSpecial featuresVery robust species → well suited for beginners. The characteristic "red eye" makes it unmistakable. Very active tetra that loves to swim. Perfect for larger community aquariums. Goes well with many peaceful fish species.ConclusionMoenkhausia sanctaefilomenae is a lively, attractive and very robust schooling fish that is ideal for community aquariums. With its striking red-eye colouring and its spirited but peaceful swimming behaviour, it brings life to the aquarium. It is easy to care for and therefore suitable for both beginners and experienced aquarists.If you have any questions or problems, our trained team at Zoo Roco is here to help. They can provide expert advice on all matters.

Swordtail profileArea of origin:Swordtails live in rivers, streams and slow-flowing waters in Central America. They often live in densely overgrown bank areas.Species:Mainly breeding forms of Xiphophorus helleri are offered in the pet trade. The species frequently offered in pet shops include (colour and fin variants)Red swordtailKoi swordtailTuxedo WagtailGreen swordtail (wild form)Highfin swordtailPineappleBlack MoscowMarigoldSocial behaviour:Swordtails are active and peaceful fish, but males can occasionally rival each other. In a well-structured aquarium, their behaviour is usually calm. They go well with many other peaceful species. Keeping conditions:A spacious, well-planted aquarium with free swimming space is important. Swordtails prefer harder water, a gentle current and regular water changes. A cover is also recommended - they can jump.Breeding:Swordtails are viviparous. Females give birth to 30-80 fry every 4-6 weeks. Fine plants are recommended as protection for the young, as the parents can eat their offspring. Breeding is very easy.Special features:Very robust and recommended species for beginners Males can "metamorphose" late - sometimes females develop a sword later Wide range of colours and varieties. Very reproductiveConclusion:The swordtail is an attractive, lively and uncomplicated aquarium fish that exhibits interesting social behaviour, especially in groups. Thanks to its robustness and easy breeding, it is ideal for community aquariums and also for beginners.If you have any questions or problems, our trained team at Zoo Roco is here to help. They can provide expert advice on all matters.

Herkunftsgebiet: Neuguinea: Küstenebene und anschliessendes inneres Tiefland zwischen Dyke Ackland Bay und Collingwood Bay an dem östlichen Ende von Neuguinea. Soziales Verhalten: Munterer, friedlicher Schwarmfisch Hälterungsbedingungen: Wie bei P. connieae angegeben. P. furcatus liebt dichte Bepflanzung der Becken. Zucht: Ähnelt stark der von P. connieae. Einzelheiten:ALLEN & CROSS (1982): Rainbowfishes of Australia and Papua New Guinea, T.F.H.-Verlag, beschreiben ein Zuchtbecken für die Pseudomugil-Arten folgendermassen: Ein Becken mit den Massen 40 x 25 x 25 cm reicht aus. Der Boden sollte mit einer dünnen Sandschicht bedeckt sein, einen Klumpen Javamoos und 2 oder 3 schwimmende Riccia-Polster sowie einen schwach arbeitenden Ausströmerstein enthalten. Man kann die Tiere sowohl paarweise als auch in Gruppen zur Zucht ansetzen. Ist das Männchen zu aggressiv, so gibt man 1 - 2 weitere Weibchen hinzu. Ein Ansatz im Schwarm bringt erheblich bessere Ergebnisse als paarweise Zucht. Die Tiere laichen gewöhnlich am Morgen ab. Die Eier haben Haftfäden und kleben an den Wasserpflanzen. Die Entwicklungszeit beträgt bei 25° C 15 - 20 Tage. Die Elterntiere werden herausgefangen (Laichräuber). Fütterung der Jungen mit Infusorien und Staubfutter. Besonderheiten: P. furcatus unterscheidet sich von P. connieae durch das Vorhandensein von gewöhnlich 8 - 9 (selten 7) segmentierten Strahlen in der zweiten Rücken-flosse (10 - 11, gelegentlich 9, selten 12 bei P. connieae) und durch je einen dorsalen und ventralen Rand in der Schwanzflosse. d von P. furcatus haben eine kräftig orangefarbene Brust, während sie bei P. connieae gelb ist.Quellennachweis: Mergus Atlas Band 2Für Fragen und Probleme steht Ihnen unser ausgebildetes Team im Zoo Roco zur Verfügung. Es kann Sie in allen Fragen fachgerecht beraten.

Boesemans rainbowfishArea of origin:Boeseman's Rainbowfish inhabits clear, slightly alkaline lakes and tributaries of West Papua. The water is hard, rich in oxygen and often very clear.Species:The Boesemans Rainbowfish belongs to the genus Melanotaenia. Other known species (not identical, but closely related): The species frequently offered in the pet trade include:Melanotaenia boesemani (Boeseman)Melanotaenia praecox (neon rainbowfish)Melanotaenia lacustrisMelanotaenia herbertaxelrodiGlossolepis incisus (red rainbowfish)Social behaviour:Very peaceful Ideal for larger community tanks. Strong mating behaviour, especially in the morning. Show very dynamic swimming behaviour in the shoal. Pair-forming during courtship, but shoaling speciesKeeping conditions:Lots of free swimming space. Dense marginal planting Clear, stable water parameters. Strong filtration and good oxygen supply. A cover is recommended – rainbowfish like to jump. Good light intensity promotes colourfulnessBreedingRelatively simple Free spawners with daily egg-laying over fine-leaved plants or spawning mops. Eggs stick to plants. Parents should be separated after spawning. Fry require the finest powdered food/infusoria, later Artemia nauplii. Hard, slightly alkaline water promotes breeding success.Special featuresOne of the most colourful freshwater fish of all. Colours become more intense with age. Particularly active and keen swimmers. Very social species – keeping them alone leads to stress. Good water quality is crucial for health.Conclusion:Boeseman's rainbowfish are colourful, lively and robust schooling fish that really come into their own in larger aquariums. If you provide sufficient space, clear water and varied feeding, you will have an impressive, active and peaceful aquarium inhabitant.If you have any questions or problems, our trained team at Zoo Roco is here to help. They can provide expert advice on all matters.

Profile Black Phantom TetraArea of origin:The black phantom tetra lives in slow-flowing, densely vegetated waters in South America. The water is often soft, slightly acidic and shady due to plant growth.Species:The black phantom tetra offered in the trade is predominantly Hyphessobrycon megalopterus.Other "phantom" species are e.g:Red phantom tetra (Hyphessobrycon sweglesi)White phantom tetra (Megalamphodus megalopterus var.)The species frequently offered in pet shops includeBlack phantom tetra (standard form)Rarer:Longfin variantSocial behaviour:The black phantom tetra is peaceful and displays beautiful courtship and display behaviour within the school - the males in particular show off their large dorsal fins. It is ideal for community aquariums with other calm species.Keeping conditions:Well-planted aquarium with free swimming zones. Darkened areas (roots, floating plants) preferred. Gentle current. Stable water values and regular water changes. Dark substrate makes the colours appear stronger.Breeding:Free spawners - the eggs are scattered over plants or spawning substrates. Parents eat the spawn → breeding tank necessary. Soft, slightly acidic water promotes spawning success. Fry are very small and require infusoria/small food.Special features:Very peaceful and ideal for community tanks Males like to show off with fanned-out fins Colours look particularly intense in shady, darker aquariums Robust and well suited for beginners Conclusion:The black phantom tetra is an elegant, peaceful schooling fish that particularly comes into its own in well-planted aquariums with soft light. Its harmonious nature and beautiful contrasting colours make it an ideal inhabitant for many community aquariums.If you have any questions or problems, our trained team at Zoo Roco is here to help. They can provide expert advice on all matters.

Area of origin: Malaysia, Borneo and Sumatra; in rivers densely overgrown with plants Social behaviour: Very peaceful, but two males can often fight each other. Keeping conditions: Water level from approx. 30 cm, provide hiding places on the water surface (floating ferns). Do not keep with rowdy fish (e.g. cichlids), T. leeri then loses its magnificent colours and stands shyly in a corner, indeed, does not dare to eat. The room temperature should be above 20-22° C, otherwise the fish will catch a cold easily and become ill Breeding: Lower the water level to approx. 12 cm. A large foam nest is built between aquatic plants and is well guarded by the male after spawning. The male does not drive the female away as brusquely as other labyrinth fish species.Foam nest Special features: Very persistent, the hardiest of the labyrinthine fish next to the blue gourami. Lives for about 8 years. Source: Mergus Atlas Volume 1Our trained team is available to assist you with any questions or issues at Zoo Roco. They can provide you with expert advice on all matters.

Herkunftsgebiet: In zahlreichen Lokalformen vom nördlichsten Südamerika über das gesamte Mittelamerika der atlantischen Abdachung bis zum Süden Nordamerikas  Soziales Verhalten: Sehr friedlich, guter Algenfresser. Im Gesellschaftsaquarium nicht sehr ausdauernd, da Zuchtformen leicht kränkeln Hälterungsbedingungen: Die Zuchtform Black Molly ist wärmebedürftig (26 - 30°C); die Wildform verträgt Temperaturen ab 18° C. Becken mit schnellwüchsigen Pflanzen und viel Oberflächenbewuchs ausstatten. Verstecke bieten. Etwas Salzzugabe (0,1 %). pH-Wert 7,5 - 8,2; Härte 11 -3O°dGH. Zucht: Sehr vermehrungsfreudige Art. Von schwarzen Eltern kann man leicht gescheckte Junge bekommen. Zuchtformen: Leierschwanz, Mondmolly, Fahnenmolly.Tragzeit: 30-40 Tage Besonderheiten: Black Mollies werden nicht sehr alt, die Zuchtformen meist nicht mehr als drei Jahre. Die starke Variationsbreite dieser Art hat zu der grossen Zahl der Synonyma geführt.Quellennachweis: Mergus Atlas Band 1Für Fragen und Probleme steht Ihnen unser ausgebildetes Team im Zoo Roco zur Verfügung. Es kann Sie in allen Fragen fachgerecht beraten.

Herkunftsgebiet: Zuflüsse des Amazonas, schnellfliessende klare Bäche Soziales Verhalten: Friedliche Art, die für große Gesellschaftsaquarien geeignet ist Hälterungsbedingungen: Bevorzugt grosse, klare Becken, sauerstoffreich und mit grossen Wurzeln als dunkle Rastplätze ausgestattet. Hier, gegen das Licht geschützt, verbringen die Welse den größten Teil des Tages bewegungslos. Ein starker Filter oder Ausströmer sollen für Strömung und Sauerstoffanreicherung sorgen.   Zucht: Die Paarungsbereitschaft ist durch Färbung erkennbar. Männchen färbt sich dunkel mit weißen Punkten, Weibchen färbt Kopf graurot. Der Laichakt beginnt dann bald. Laicht in Höhlen von Wurzeln. Das Männchen betreibt Brutpflege und befächelt das Gelege. Zucht bei Wasserwerten von pH 6,7 - 7. Härte 4 - 10 Grad dGH. Eier sind senfkornähnlich in Gelegeballen. Junge schlüpfen nach ca. 5 Tagen und saugen sich sogleich an den Beckenscheiben fest. Nach etwa 14 Tagen verschwindet der große Dottersack und man muss mit grünem, feinstem Flockenfutter (MicroMin) füttern. Quellennachweis: Mergus Atlas Band 1   Für Fragen und Probleme steht Ihnen unser ausgebildetes Team im Zoo Roco zur Verfügung. Es kann Sie in allen Fragen fachgerecht beraten.

Herkunftsgebiet: Nordöstliches Indien und Assam, Bangladesh. Soziales Verhalten: Friedlich und scheu; zur Laichzeit stark revierverteidigend. Hälterungsbedingungen: Dicht bepflanzte Becken mit teilweiser Abdeckung der Oberfläche durch Schwimmpflanzen. Nur mit ruhigen und friedlichen, kleineren Arten vergesellschaften. pH-Wert 6 - 7,5; Härte bis 15° dGH. Zucht: Während der Laichzeit grenzen die Paare ihr Revier (ca. 500 cm2) gegen Artgenossen ab. Die Männchen bauen lockeres Schaumnest, es wurde auch schon Laichabgabe ohne ein solches beobachtet. Die Larven schlüpfen nach 24 - 36 Stunden, je nach Temperatur, und schwimmen bereits nach einem Tag frei. Aufzucht der Jungen mit Infusorien, später Artemia und feinst gemahlenes Flockenfutter; auch pulverisierte FD-Tabletten eignen sich. Besonderheiten: Nicht ganz unproblematischer Labyrinthfisch, der nur sehr bedingt für das Gesellschaftsbecken geeignet ist. Die Art ist anfällig für Oodinium pululans. Quellennachweis: Mergus Atlas Band 1Für Fragen und Probleme steht Ihnen unser ausgebildetes Team im Zoo Roco zur Verfügung. Es kann Sie in allen Fragen fachgerecht beraten.

Periophthalmus novemradiatus - The Indian mudskipperOrigin & habitatThe Indian mudskipper (Periophthalmus novemradiatus) originates from the coastal regions of South Asia, particularly India, Sri Lanka and Bangladesh. Its favourite habitat is mangrove forests, brackish water zones, muddy estuaries and intertidal zones. Here it finds ideal conditions to live between water and land.AppearanceThis unusual fish has an elongated, scale-covered body, which is usually grey-brownish in colour and can be covered with small, shimmering spots. Particularly striking are its protruding eyes, which sit high up on the head and can be moved independently of each other - a perfect adaptation to life outside the water. Males also have a more conspicuous dorsal fin, which they raise for courtship.SizePeriophthalmus novemradiatus is one of the smaller mudskipper species. Adults reach a length of around 6 to 10 centimetres.Life expectancyIn suitable husbandry or under natural conditions, an Indian mudskipper can live for around 3 to 5 years. Factors such as water quality, diet and habitat play an important role here.LifestyleThe Indian mudskipper is diurnal and semi-aquatic, which means that it spends most of its time out of the water. Thanks to its powerful pectoral fins, it can "jump" and move on wet mud. It uses both its gills and a special skin respiration system to breathe as long as the skin remains moist. Mudskippers are territorial and can be quite aggressive towards conspecifics.Unique characteristicsAmphibious lifestyle: One of the few fish that can actively move around on land.Eyes like a chameleon: Their eyes can rotate independently of one another – a great advantage for navigation and hunting prey.Jumping & Climbing: Despite their small size, they can jump surprisingly far and even climb roots or stones.Skin and mucous membrane respiration: Like amphibians, the mudskipper can also absorb oxygen through its moist skin and the mucous membranes in its mouth and throat. However, this epidermal respiration only works as long as the skin is well moistened – which is why the mudskipper relies on a humid environment or frequent periods in the water.Keeping in a paludariumA paludarium - a combination of aquarium and terrarium - is ideal for keeping the Indian mudskipper in a species-appropriate way. This should offer both a water area and sufficient land area with a moist, muddy or sandy substrate.SetupLand area: At least half of the paludarium should consist of dry, slightly damp sand on which the animals can walk and jump. Fine aquarium sand or a clay-sand mixture works well.Aquarium section: Shallow and warm (24–28°C), with slightly brackish water (salinity approx. 5–15 g/L), as the animals originate from brackish water zones.Hiding places & climbing opportunities: Roots, stones or mangrove roots provide shelter and climbing opportunities.Plants: Saltwater-tolerant plants or artificial alternatives can be used – a robust setup is important, as the fish dig.TidesA particularly natural paludarium offers a simulated ebb and flow of the tide. This can be controlled using pumps or a timer: At high tide, the water area fills slowly and provides access for swimming. At low tide, the water level drops and more land becomes accessible. This corresponds to the natural behaviour of the animals and significantly stimulates their activity.General conditionsLighting: Daylight simulation with UV components is recommended.Humidity: High, ideally between 70–90%.Cover: The paludarium should be well covered, as mudskippers are excellent climbers and can escape quickly.Created with ChatGPT – revised by Zoo Roco