Degu

available for sale

Profile

Home:	Chile
Age expectation:	4-5 years
Sexual maturity:	2-3 months
Gestation period:	3 months
Social behaviour:	Group animal
Diet:	Hay, seeds, green food, branches, water

Product information "Degu"

The degu

Degus originate from Chile and are found in the high plateaus and low mountain ranges of Chile at altitudes up to 1,200 metres. They prefer open landscapes that are easy to survey.

Degus are very social animals and live in family groups of 5 to 12 animals. These include several males, which live together in harmony and defend the "family territory" against neighbouring degu groups.

Degus mark their territory with scent marks from urine. For example, they mark stones or the sand bathing area.

Females often give birth in the same underground nest. This results in all the young having the same nest scent and therefore being suckled indiscriminately by any female.

Degu care:

A commercially available cage is not suitable for housing degus. On the one hand, a great deal of bedding would fall out, as degus love to dig and naturally throw the bedding around. On the other hand, the commercially available small animal enclosures have a plastic base tray, which a degu can gnaw through in a very short time. We recommend a small animal aviary, as this best meets the requirements of degus. As an alternative, an aquarium/terrarium can also be chosen.

Whether aquarium, terrarium or room aviary, the main deciding factor is above all the species-appropriate size of the accommodation. In general, it is said that the size for the base area of the accommodation should be 100x50cm if you keep two degus. But the principle always applies: the bigger, the better! Then the animals have more space to move and run around, and a larger home can also be made much more attractive.

Degus must have a digging layer of 30cm of bedding available.

Legal requirements:

Enclosure at least 100x50x70cm for 5 animals (not our recommendation)
Bedding height 30cm
Hiding places for all animals
Coarse-structured food: hay or straw
fresh branches
Sand bath
Group housing

Cage equipment includes:

Thick branches for walking on and gnawing
Stones for sharpening claws
Sleeping houses as vantage points: Wooden houses are unsuitable due to the degus’ strong gnawing drive. Bricks stacked on top of each other, covered above with a large stone slab (e.g. slate), are better. But pay attention to safety, because a collapse could injure your degu.
Perches as viewing points and to enlarge the floor area of the cage
Sand bath: Like a chinchilla, a degu also needs a regular sand bath to clean its coat. Once a day, you should give it about 15 minutes for this. Therefore, leave a place in the terrarium free where you can place the bath. Do not leave the "bathtub" in there all the time as it will become dirty too quickly. If you use a wire cage, you could get a chinchilla bathtub to hang in, as these are equipped with a removable lid.
Water bowl: Nipple drinkers are not particularly suitable as they are made of plastic and, in the presence of a degu, they leak very quickly. The very sturdy hard plastic drinkers are also not particularly suitable for degus. Also, they are difficult to fix in a terrarium. So better use a stone bowl as well. Change water regularly
Food bowl: Ideally a heavy porcelain bowl that cannot be pushed or knocked over. But it should not be too small so that several degu group members can feed from it at the same time. Placing the bowl on the floor is not advisable, as degus love to scratch and dig. It is best to place it on the sleeping house roof so that dirt does not get in so quickly.

Food:

When buying food, the general rule is that you should buy a maximum of 2 - 3 months’ supply, otherwise the vitamin content will decrease rapidly. Get used to a regular rhythm for feeding. Your pet will get used to the times very quickly and will soon look forward to them.

Basic food
Degus are given a special degu food mix.
Roughage
Hay: Make sure your animals always have enough hay in the cage. In the wild, they mainly eat meagre food such as grasses or bark. Therefore, hay is actually closest to their natural diet. Degus eat correspondingly large amounts of it. It also serves as nesting material.
Green food
As a general rule, green food must always be thoroughly washed and then carefully dried.
Vegetables: carrots, cauliflower, cucumber, lettuce
Natural food: in the form of branches (only hardwood such as some from fruit trees, beech, birch or hazelnut), do not collect near busy roads.

Degus are prone to diabetes. Even small amounts of fruit can already cause diabetes. Please only feed vegetables and herbs!
Treats
To satisfy the degus’ urge to gnaw, they are regularly given fresh twigs, which are very happily accepted. The bark provides every degu with a tasty change. You will also find plenty of treats in pet stores. With various dried herbs and special degu snacks, you can spoil your degus!

Breeding:

If you want to breed degus, here you will find the most important facts that you should be familiar with before starting breeding.

	Sexual maturity: This occurs in females at about two months of age, in males at about three months. However, it may also occur later, for which individual differences may be responsible.
	Gestation period: It lasts about three months. That is quite a long time for such a small animal. Even guinea pigs have a shorter gestation period. But degu young are already well developed at birth. They are hairy and have their eyes half or fully open, in contrast to mouse or hamster young, which are born naked and blind.
	Number: A litter usually consists of four to six young. However, there are also huge litters with up to ten young. These are rather rare and usually only grow up so large if there is a second lactating female present, as degu females only have eight teats.

Regular costs (per month/for 2 animals):

Food: approx. Fr.30.--
Bedding and hay: approx. Fr. 50.--
Vet: The more animal-friendly and cleaner the keeping, the less likely a visit to the vet will be necessary. Nevertheless, you must always expect that an animal may become ill and thus incur additional costs.

Before deciding on degus, you should definitely have read a relevant specialist book.

The following applies to all animal keeping: Children (including adolescents) must be guided, supervised and checked by parents. Children should know that animals are not toys!

For questions and problems, our trained team at Zoo Roco is at your disposal. They can advise you professionally on all questions.

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Rat

Rat The Norway rat originally comes from China.In the wild, rats live in colonies, in a so-called rat burrow. In this underground burrow, various burrows are created for different needs (sleeping and recreation room, storage and toilet chamber, burrow for rearing the young together). domestication: The coloured rat is descended from the Norway rat. It was first recorded in Europe in the 10th century. It used to be assumed that the Norway rat migrated to Europe from China via Russia and then Norway.However, rats have effectively travelled around the world as stowaways on ships or other means of transport and can now be found everywhere.Rats are of great importance worldwide as pest rodents and disease carriers (plague, rabies...). Keeping: Rats are social rodents and must be kept at least in pairs. However, larger, same-sex groups can also live in a large rodent enclosure or aviary. The minimum size is 100x50x70cm for five animals. The rats can be offered daily exercise. Many different materials can be offered as bedding, such as hemp, maize husks or linen. Low-dust but absorbent and odour-binding bedding is recommended. No burrowing layer is required, but rats also like to nest in the substrate. Each animal must be provided with a place to retreat to and suitable material to pad the houses. The enclosure can be furnished in a varied way with ladders, natural branches, lianas and seat boards. Rats mark their territory with urine and their scent glands. As this has a strong odour, the cage must be cleaned out twice a week. The enclosures should not be cleaned with strong-smelling chemicals as the animals will mark them more strongly. Legal regulations: Enclosure min. 100x50cm for 2 animals Hiding places for all animals Coarse-textured food: hay or straw fresh branches Nutrition: Rats are omnivores and therefore have a varied diet: Commercially available feed mixture for coloured rats Insects such as crickets, multi-worms Curd or yoghurt Boiled eggs rat meat seeds rat millet Herbs and flowers Hay or straw Fruit, vegetables and berries fresh branches fresh water daily Breeding data: Newborn rats are naked and blind. The fur growth of the young animals begins from the 2nd day. The ears open after 3 to 4 days and the eyes after 13 to 16 days.To prevent uncontrolled reproduction, males must be neutered or separated from their mother and sisters before they reach sexual maturity. Early castration is possible from the sixth week. Regular costs (per month): Food: approx. Fr. 20.-- Bedding and hay: approx. Fr. 40.-- Vet: The more species-appropriate and cleaner the husbandry, the less likely it is that you will have to visit the vet. Nevertheless, you must always be prepared for the fact that an animal may fall ill and incur additional costs. Before you decide on a rat, you should definitely have read a relevant specialist book.The following applies to all animal husbandry: Children (including adolescents) must be guided, supervised and controlled by their parents. Children should know that animals are not toys! Our trained team is available to assist you with any questions or issues at Zoo Roco. They can provide you with expert advice on all matters.

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Gerbil

Gerbil Gerbils are very sociable animals. In their original home, the Mongolian steppe, they live in large family groups. Mongolian gerbils live in dry steppe areas, where it can get very cold in winter (down to -40 °C) and very warm in summer (up to +50 °C), in underground burrows with several tunnels and chambers. They are active during the day and at night, and have one of their resting phases at the time of the greatest midday heat. Resting and waking periods alternate several times a day. Keeping: Gerbils should never be kept alone. They need fellow gerbils to feel comfortable. Gerbils kept individually often sit listlessly in the corner and remain shy. Only when in pairs or groups do they feel secure, are terribly curious and trusting.It is best to keep two or more animals of the same sex. A male and female pair gets on very well, but then numerous offspring can be expected.The main activity of gerbils is digging! Therefore, the best cage is a large aquarium with a mesh cover. As gerbils should be given plenty of bedding for digging, a mesh cage is not particularly suitable. The cage equipment includes: Bedding at least 30cm deep so the gerbils can fulfil their digging needs Hay Various shelter options made of wood or cork, branches for climbing Sand bath Food bowl and drinking bottle The furnishings should not be made of plastic, as gerbils will gnaw everything. Legal regulations: Enclosure at least 100x50cm for 2 animals Bedding / digging layer 25cm Hay and straw Hiding places for all animals Nesting material Sand bath Gnawing objects such as softwood or fresh branches Group housing Food: To stay healthy, gerbils - like other living creatures - depend on a varied diet.The balanced basic diet is ensured by the ready-made food offered in pet shops.Fresh foods such as fruit, carrots or dandelion can also be given to gerbils from time to time. The cage should be checked daily for spoiled fresh food so that the gerbils do not eat mouldy food. To wear down their teeth, gerbils always need some hard bread. Hay serves not only as nesting material, but is also partly eaten.Fresh water should always be available to gerbils. The commercially available small animal drinkers are recommended, as an open water bowl is quickly filled with bedding. Gerbils do not drink much, but it is not true that they can do completely without fluids. Regular costs (per month/for 2 animals): Food: approx. Fr.15.-- Bedding and hay: approx. Fr. 20.-- Veterinarian: The more species-appropriate and clean the keeping, the less often a visit to the vet threatens. Nevertheless, you must always expect that an animal can become ill at any time and will then incur additional costs. Before you decide on gerbils, you should definitely have read a relevant specialist book. For any animal keeping applies: Children (including adolescents) must be guided, supervised and controlled by their parents. Children should know that animals are not toys!For questions and problems, our trained team at Zoo Roco is available to you. They can provide you with expert advice in all matters.

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A group of coloured rats in different colours (grey, brown, black and pied) stands on a white background.

Rat

Ratten sind sehr lebhaft, neugierig und unternehmungslustig. Doch nicht allen gefallen diese Nagetiere. Die Einen finden sie bezaubernd und elegant und bewundern ihre Intelligenz. Die Anderen fürchten sich vor ihnen, finden sie unheimlich oder gar eklig wegen des langen, nackten Schwanzes.Ratten werden sehr zutraulich. Doch es gibt auch Ratten, bei denen eine Zähmung etwas Geduld braucht.Ratten sind sowohl für grössere Kinder (ab etwa 12 Jahren), als auch für tierliebende Erwachsene gut geeignet. Trotzdem sollte man immer bedenken, dass nicht alle Menschen vorurteilsfrei auf Ratten zugehen können. Dafür sollte man als Rattenhalter Verständnis aufbringen.Ist die ganze Familie mit den neuen Hausgenossen einverstanden, werden die Farbratten viel Freude bereiten. Man sollte Kindern die Versorgung der Ratten nicht ganz allein überlassen und auch ein Auge darauf haben, dass sie nicht allzu viel Unsinn mit ihren kleinen Freunden anstellen.Bei guter Pflege können Ratten über 3 Jahre alt werden. Haltung: Ratten brauchen unbedingt Gesellschaft. Deshalb sollte man 2 oder mehr gleichgeschlechtliche Tiere halten. Zwei fremde Weibchen lassen sich in der Regel ohne grössere Probleme aneinander gewöhnen. Männchen vertragen sich meist nur, wenn sie miteinander aufgewachsen sind, es sei denn sie sind kastriert.Auf die Haltung eines Paares sollte verzichtet werden (ausser man lässt das Männchen kastrieren). Denn Ratten bringen bis zu 20 Junge pro Wurf auf die Welt und meistens findet man nicht für alle Jungtiere einen guten Platz.Ratten brauchen viel Bewegung. Sie wollen klettern und spielen, aber auch buddeln und wühlen. Für 2 Ratten sollte der Käfig mindestens 100x50x70cm gross sein. Je grösser desto besser und desto schöner und phantasievoller kann man den Käfig auch einrichten.Wenn man den Ratten nicht täglich Auslauf geben kann, sollte man sich eine grosse Voliere anschaffen, damit die Tiere genug Bewegung haben. Wer jedoch zu wenig Zeit hat seine Ratten zu beschäftigen, sollte im Interesse der Tiere doch lieber auf die Rattenhaltung verzichten. Zur Käfigausstattung gehört: Einstreu mind. 15cm tief, damit die Ratte ihre Grabbedürfnisse ausleben kann Heu verschiedene Unterschlupfmöglichkeiten aus Holz oder Kork, Etagen, um die Fläche des Käfigs zu vergrössern Futternapf und Trinkflasche Futter: Als Allesfresser stellen Ratten eigentlich keine besonderen Ansprüche. Was uns Menschen schmeckt, schmeckt ihnen auch. Ob es ihnen bekommt, ist die andere Frage.Als Grundfutter erhalten Ratten eine spezielle Futtermischung, die genau auf die Bedürfnisse der Tiere zugeschnitten ist. Zur Ergänzung kann man ihnen frisches Obst oder Gemüse anbieten. Joghurtdrops oder Nüsse kann man als Belohnung einfach zwischendurch geben. Es gibt zudem viele verschiedene Zusatzfutter, die als Dessert oder Leckerbissen gerne gefressen werden.Um ihre Zähne abzunutzen brauchen die Ratten immer etwas Hartes zum Knabbern.Besonders wichtig ist, dass die Tiere immer genug frisches Wasser haben. Ratten müssen oft und viel trinken. Hier empfehlen sich Flaschentränken, die man im Gitter einhängen kann. Regelmässige Kosten (im Monat/bei 2 Tieren): Futter: ca. Fr.15.-- Einstreu und Heu: ca. Fr. 30.-- Tierarzt: Je artgerechter und sauberer die Haltung, desto seltener droht der Gang zum Tierarzt. Dennoch muss man immer damit rechnen, dass ein Tier auch einmal krank werden kann und dann zusätzliche Kosten verursacht. Bevor Sie sich für Ratten entscheiden, sollten Sie unbedingt ein entsprechendes Fachbuch gelesen haben.Für jede Tierhaltung gilt: Kinder (auch Jugendliche) müssen von den Eltern angeleitet, beaufsichtigt und kontrolliert werden. Kinder sollen wissen, dass Tiere keine Spielzeuge sind!Für Fragen und Probleme steht Ihnen unser ausgebildetes Team im Zoo Roco zur Verfügung. Es kann Sie in allen Fragen fachgerecht beraten.

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Acacia rat

Acacia rat Acacia rats originate from Africa. They inhabit the savannahs and live in acacia trees.Acacia rats owe their name to the fact that they are found almost exclusively in the upper regions of acacias. Studies have shown that they are probably specialised in this tree species and a few others. This is where most of their lives take place. Only in exceptional cases do the animals leave the trees to flee across the ground. Biology: The genus Thallomys comprises a total of four species. In addition to the true acacia rat (Thallomys paedulcus), the black-tailed acacia rat (Thallomys nigricauda), the Shortridge’s acacia rat (Thallomys shortridgei) and the Loring’s acacia rat (Thallomys loringi) also belong to the genus of these African tree dwellers. However, Thallomys paedulcus and Thallomys nigricauda were categorised as one species until 1988. Keeping: Acacia rats are very social and must be kept in groups. Both female and male groups can be kept together.A mixed group leads to offspring - and you should consider in advance where you can give the young animals.A large terrarium or an aviary is best suited as a cage. The dimensions of 100x50cm and a height of at least 80cm should not be undercut - however, the animals love to climb, so an aviary of 160-180cm is recommended.The animals spend little time on the ground, so there is no need for a digging layer, just a bedding of sand or soil covering the ground.With lots of branches and hideaways, the cage can be furnished very diversely. Our acacia rats love the coconuts and snuggle up together in them as a group.Ideas for furnishing: Branches (also very attractive with the branches of the corkscrew hazel) Coconuts on ropes Nesting boxes (e.g. budgerigar nesting box) Ropes Suspension bridges Grass nests Nesting material - hay, leaves Food: To stay healthy, acacia rats – like other living beings – depend on a varied diet.As basic feed, a mixture for dwarf hamsters or an exotic food can be offered. In addition, various herbs and flower mixtures are very important, as is the requirement for protein, which can be covered by dried or live food insects.Fresh fruit and also vegetables can be offered to acacia rats. Try out what the animals like, as this can vary greatly.Fruit: bananas, melons, grapes and sultanas, various berriesVegetables: carrots, cucumbers, but also fresh herbs or dandelion can be fed. Breeding: Breeding acacia rats is relatively easy. In the wild, acacia rats breed only in the rainy season – in captivity, all year round.After a gestation period of 24 days, the mother gives birth to two to four young, although most litters consist of two young. For the first three weeks, the young attach themselves to the mother’s teats for suckling and are also transported in this way.The young are suckled for about 30 days. The parent animals defend their young very strongly and warn with a chattering of their teeth. The animals should stay with the parents for ten weeks, as the young learn essential social behaviours during this time.Acacia rats can become tame, but they are not cuddly animals and are above all suitable for observation. Regular monthly costs: Food depending on size of group: approx. CHF 30.-- Bedding: approx. CHF 20.-- Vet: The more species-appropriate and cleaner the keeping, the less likely a visit to the vet will be necessary. However, you must always expect that an animal may become ill and incur additional costs. Before you decide on acacia rats, you should definitely have read an appropriate specialist book.For all animal keeping: children must be guided, supervised and controlled by their parents. Children must learn that an animal has its own needs and way of life and to respect this. Parents should be aware that it is they who are responsible for the animal.If you have any questions or problems, our trained team at Zoo Roco is at your disposal. They can provide you with expert advice on all matters.

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