Red neon

Fairy shrimps (spring gillfoot) Fairy shrimps (spring gillfoot) are very common. Fairy shrimps are gilled crustaceans that have been found on our planet since prehistoric times in salt lakes, drying waters or polar waters.Only animals from Asia or America that live in a water temperature of 20-30°C are suitable for keeping in an aquarium. These species (Branchinella thailandensis and Dendrocephalus brasiliensis) live in waters that regularly dry out and are only filled with rainwater. The water is therefore very soft. Appearance The animals have 11 pairs of leaf feet. These leaf-shaped limbs serve not only for locomotion but also for breathing – which has led to the term "gilled-foot crustacean". There are sometimes minor differences in colour. They are found in colours ranging from orange to reddish-brown and may have greenish to bluish hues at the joints and at the boundaries of the segments.Both sexes have two short thread-like antennae. However, another pair of antennae differ in both shape and according to sex. Males have lobe-shaped appendages that can be curled up. Adult females are mainly distinguished by the ventrally located brood sacs, which are filled with eggs, and the ends of the female's tail are translucently light. Systematics Phylum: Arthropoda / ArthropodsSubphylum: Crustacea / CrustaceansClass: Anostraca – Gill-feetFamily: BranchipodidaeGenus: Branchipus / Eubranchipus /Tanymastix etc. Care Depending on the species, fairy shrimps live for 6-12 weeks and the size of adult animals varies from 1-3cm.Can Triops and fairy shrimps be kept together?yes, they can Aquarium size: Initially, a Faunarium box size 230 x 155 x 170 mm is quite sufficient From a body length of 1.5cm, they can be gradually accustomed to larger tanks Basic lighting: Sunlight or aquarium lighting is sufficientAeration: An air pump with a stone and very little air flow is sufficient for keepingSetup:Only water and breeding substrate in the breeding/starting container. A little fine aquarium sand can be used as substrate (but this is not absolutely necessary)Decorations can be used, but are only for our eyes and not of importance to the fairy shrimps.Fairy shrimps are free-swimmers – so they need enough free swimming space in the breeding container.If the animals swim around freely, you can also add a little aquarium moss to the water. To ensure the water is soft, it is best to use 2/3 distilled water and 1/3 mineral water (non-carbonated).Water temperature: Fluctuations in temperature of +/- 5° C are not dramatic.The ideal breeding temperature is 26°.Start:The larvae only hatch when they are completely surrounded by water. Therefore, place the eggs on adhesive tape and then put this in the water – so the eggs are not washed to the edge and always remain in contact with water.After 1-3 days the larvae hatch. The larvae grow quickly and can reach sexual maturity after up to 40 moults in one to two weeks. The males hold the females with their jaw pincers shortly before and also during mating. After mating, the eggs develop in the egg sacs on the females’ abdomens. They fall to the bottom of the water and can survive for several years of prolonged drought in the substrate.When the fairy shrimps have died, the water can be drained off and the substrate with the eggs left completely dry. The larvae can only hatch again if the eggs were completely dry.Once this is dried out, a new batch can be started.If no substrate is used, you can also siphon off the eggs with a thin hose. Let the water containing the eggs run through a fine net or a coffee filter – this way you can collect the eggs.Important: The animals do not tolerate large water changes. If fairy shrimps are to be moved to a larger home, it is best to place the animals together with the breeding water into the new home or tank and slowly fill up the container with conditioned tap water. Feeding The larvae are fed from the 3rd day after hatching.The larvae can be fed with algae powder or JBL Artemio fluid. For all animal husbandry: Children must be guided, supervised and monitored by their parents. Children must learn that an animal has its own needs and habits and they must respect this. Parents should be aware that they are responsible for the animal. For questions and problems our trained team at Zoo Roco is at your disposal. They can advise you professionally on all matters.

ProfileArea of origin:Platies originally come from small rivers, streams and lagoons in Central America, often in densely overgrown bank areas.Species:The platies available in pet shops are usually breeding forms of two species:Xiphophorus maculatus (Southern Platy)Xiphophorus variatus (Variatus platy)Often hybridised. The species frequently offered in pet shops include (cultivated forms and colour variants)Red PlatySun platyTuxedo PlatyWagtail PlatyBlue platyVariatus PlatyKoi-PlatyHighfin PlatySocial behaviour:Platies are very peaceful and extremely sociable. They are ideal for community tanks with other calm species. Males can occasionally harass females, which is why a preponderance of females is recommended.Keeping conditions:A well-planted aquarium with free swimming space is ideal. Platies like hard to medium-hard water and a moderate current. Regular water changes and a balanced diet ensure vitality and colourfulness.Breeding:Platies are viviparous. Females give birth every 4-6 weeks. Dense planting increases the survival rate of the young, as adult platies can sometimes stalk. Breeding is also easy in a community tank.Special features:Very robust and beginner-friendly. Wide variety of colours and shapes. Fits perfectly in community tanks. Breeds easily and regularlyConclusion:The Platy is a colourful, active and uncomplicated aquarium fish that is ideal for beginners and community aquariums. With stable water values, varied food and a small group, it shows its full potential and ensures lively activity in the aquarium.If you have any questions or encounter any problems, our trained team at Zoo Roco is here to help. They can provide expert advice on all matters.

Herkunftsgebiet: Asien Soziales Verhalten: Es sind sehr  friedliche, nachtaktive Fische. Sie mögen die dunklen Ecken und besonders den Strom, in dem sie übergehen, meistens geklebt gegen eine Scheibe oder einer glatten Oberfläche. Hälterungsbedingungen: Flossensauger sind Fische, die sehr empfindlich auf die Qualität des Wassers und besonders auf seine Temperatur  reagieren. Eine Temperatur über 25°C beginnt bereits, sie zu stressen, und eine 27°C Temperatur kann sogar tödlich sein.Der Sauerstoffsatz ist auch sehr wichtig. Man hält sie am besten in einem gut gefilterten und bepflanzten Aquarium. Dépigmentation der Haut kann ein Zeichen von zu hoher Temperatur sein. Zucht: Keine Informationen Bemerkungen: Andere FlossensaugerGastromyzon borneensis = hellbraun  mit schwarzen PunktenGastromyzon punctulatus = dunkelbraun  mit hellen Punkten.Pseudogastromyzon myersi = hellbraun  mit Bändern Besonderheiten: Saugen sich auf glatten Flächen mit ihren Bauch- und Afterflossen fest (sie bilden zusammen einen grossen Saugnapf).Für Fragen und Probleme steht Ihnen unser ausgebildetes Team im Zoo Roco zur Verfügung. Es kann Sie in allen Fragen fachgerecht beraten.

Profile angelfishArea of origin:Angelfish originate from the tropical Amazon basin in Brazil, Peru and Colombia. They live in stagnant or slow-flowing waters with dense vegetation and root structures.Species:The genus Pterophyllum includes:Pterophyllum scalare (common angelfish, often found in the trade)Pterophyllum altum (Altum angelfish – more demanding, significantly larger)Pterophyllum leopoldi (smallest species)The species frequently offered in pet shops include: (breeding and colour forms)Silver angelfish (wild form)Marbled angelfish Koi angelfishVeiled angelfish  Black angelfish  Gold angelfish  Zebra angelfish  Platinum angelfish Social behaviour:Angelfish are social and form hierarchies within the group. They are peaceful towards calm species, but can eat smaller fish (neons, guppies). With increasing pair formation, angelfish defend breeding territories vigorously.Keeping conditions:High aquariums with plants, roots and quiet corners.  Free space for swimming required.  Very good water quality, regular water changes.  Not too strong a current Ideal companionship with larger characins, catfish, calm barbsBreeding:Angelfish form monogamous pairs Spawn on broad leaves, roots or vertical surfaces.  Parents provide brood care: fanning the eggs and guarding the young.  For successful breeding: calm species tank, stable water values, slightly acidic waterSpecial features:Impressive body height and elegant swimming style.  Sensitive to stress and poor water quality.  Particularly beautiful colour variants available.  Become tame and show individual behaviour.Conclusion:The angelfish is a majestic, peaceful cichlid that reveals its full beauty in tall, well-structured aquariums. With good care, stable water conditions and suitable socialisation, it is a highlight for any large freshwater aquarium.If you have any questions or problems, our trained team at Zoo Roco is here to help. They can provide expert advice on all matters.

Sterbas armoured catfishArea of origin:Corydoras sterbai originates from the border region between Brazil and Bolivia and lives there in softer, clear to slightly murky waters with a sandy bottom.Species:Sterbas armoured catfish is one of over 170 Corydoras species. The species frequently offered in the pet trade includeCorydoras sterbaiCorydoras paleatusCorydoras aeneus (golden form, albino)Corydoras pandaCorydoras julii / trilineatus Sterbai is one of the most popular species due to its attractive dot and line pattern.Social behaviour:Very peaceful, sociable and active on the bottom. Forms small groups that dig together. Very compatible with other peaceful fish. Non-aggressive and ideal for community aquariums.Keeping conditions:Fine sandy soil is mandatory, as hard gravel edges injure the barbelsWell-structured tank with roots, plants and shaded areasClean, well-filtered water Gentle currentRegular water changesNever insert by hand - sensitive fin spinesBreeding:Rather easy compared to other armoured catfish. Spawn after water changes with slightly cooler water. Females stick eggs to discs and plants. Parents often have to be removed as eggs are eaten. Juveniles require fine powdered food and Artemia nauplii.Special features:Very robust and ideal for beginners Must be kept in groupsBarbels require soft substrate for protection Beautiful pattern with white spots on a dark bodyTolerates higher temperatures - ideal for discus tanksConclusion:Sterbas armoured catfish is a peaceful, attractive and easy to care for bottom dweller that provides lively, social behaviour in groups. With fine sand, clean water conditions and a varied diet, it remains healthy and active for a long time. An ideal companion fish for almost any peaceful community aquarium - and particularly popular in warm tanks.If you have any questions or problems, our trained team at Zoo Roco is here to help. They can provide expert advice on all matters.

The Siamese fighting fish (Betta splendens) Area of origin: The Siamese fighting fish is a world-famous aquarium inhabitant, originally from Thailand, or more precisely from Southeast Asia. Habitat: Fighting fish live in small warm puddles, ponds, lakes, in rice fields as well as floodplains and lagoons.The fighting fish use the dense vegetation to protect themselves from predators. Care: The fighting fish aquarium has a volume of 20 to 25 litres and therefore falls into the category of nano aquariums.When choosing a tank, you should also make sure that the height does not exceed 40 cm, as the fighting fish does not have the strength to swim very high to get air.As fighting fish are very calm and slow animals, it is not advisable to install a strong-flowing pump. Fighting fish need little to no current. Some of today's cultivated forms have fins so large that the fighting fish cannot swim for long at a time as they quickly become exhausted.The male fighting fish must be kept individually, as the name suggests: they fight, and that to the death. The females, on the other hand, can be kept in groups. Breeding fighting fish, in turn, is more difficult, as even there quarrels can occur.Fighting fish should be fed as variedly as possible. It is advisable to offer live and frozen food from time to time, such as mosquito larvae, water fleas and artemia. They occupy a territory, which they regularly swim around. If the territory is too large, a fighting fish does not feel comfortable as it quickly loses track. It is not advisable to keep them with other fish, as fighting fish feel stressed or receive too little food. They are best kept with snails. Fighting fish like tanks that are heavily planted, as this offers hiding places and the fighting fish can also rest among the plants. It is important that not the whole water surface is covered with plants, as the fighting fish is a labyrinth fish and breathes air at the water surface. Food: The fighting fish are pure carnivores. Ornamental fish food with plant-based ingredients can make the fighting fish ill, so a flake food consisting only of meat is highly recommended. When feeding the fighting fish, the following applies: regularly, but in small quantities.

Zebra catfish profileArea of origin:The zebra catfish originates exclusively from the Rio Xingu in Brazil - a warm, clear, fast-flowing river with lots of rocks and crevices. It lives in current areas between rocks and requires appropriate conditions in the aquarium.Species:Hypancistrus zebra is a separate species. Other similar Hypancistrus species: Hypancistrus sp. L066 (King Tiger) Hypancistrus sp. L333 Hypancistrus sp. L260 (Queen Arabesque) The true L046 is, however, the rarest and most sought-after species.The species frequently offered in pet shops includeHypancistrus zebra (L046) - mostly captive bredHypancistrus sp. L260Hypancistrus sp. L333Hypancistrus sp. L066Social behaviour:The zebra catfish is quiet, peaceful and likes to hide. It is nocturnal, but comes out regularly when conditions are calm. Territorial behaviour is particularly pronounced among males during breeding.Keeping conditions:Warm, oxygen-rich water. Strong current desirable. Many stone structures, narrow passages, tubes. Very clean water - sensitive to nitrite/nitrate. Subdued light, shadow zones. Only socialise with calm species (ideally species tanks)Breeding:Breeding in the aquarium is possible and often the only way to preserve the species. Cave breeders Male guards clutch until hatching. Young initially eat fine frozen and live food. Very soft, acidic water promotes breeding success. Patience required - breeding takes a long time.Special features:Very rare and protected in the wild. Often expensive due to the difficult origin and strict export regulations. Absolute warm water species. Very sensitive to poor water quality. Ideal for advanced aquarists. Beautiful black and white markings - unmistakable!Conclusion:The zebra catfish is an impressive, highly rare aquarium fish with unique markings and unusual behaviour. It requires warm, very clean water, lots of caves and a quiet environment. For experienced aquarists, it is a real treasure that can even be successfully bred with the right care.If you have any questions or problems, our trained team at Zoo Roco is here to help. They can provide expert advice on all matters.

Herkunftsgebiet: Südostasien (Malaysia, Thailand, Burma, Vietnam), lnseln des indoaustralischen Archipels. Soziales Verhalten: Friedlich, allerdings fast langweilig mit zunehmendem Alter. Jungtiere sind sehr possierlich. Mehrere Männchen sollten nicht in einem Aquarium zusammen gehalten werden. Hälterungsbedingungen: Jede Art von Einrichtung. Die Vergesellschaftung mit sehr robusten Arten verdrängt diese Art in die Ecken. Ein Fisch, der fast nicht totzukriegen ist. Er wird allerdings sehr scheu, wenn er als ausgewachsener Fisch in ein anderes, fremdes Becken umgesetzt wird; pH 6 - 8,8; Härte 5 - 35° dGH. Zucht: Wasserspiegel absenken auf 15 cm. Es wird ein Schaumnest gebaut. Nach dem Ablaichen sollte das Weibchen entfernt werden, da das Männchen bösartig sein kann. Besonderheiten: Einer der härtesten Aquarienfische überhaupt. Frisst auch Planarien (Scheibenwürmer). Auf dem Foto rechts oben ist die Zuchtform T. trichopterus ,,cosby" (Marmorierter Fadenfisch) abgebildet, darunter die Normalfärbung. Eine gelb-rosa albinotische Farbform ist immer häufiger im Handel zu habenQuellennachweis: Mergus Atlas Band 1Für Fragen und Probleme steht Ihnen unser ausgebildetes Team im Zoo Roco zur Verfügung. Es kann Sie in allen Fragen fachgerecht beraten.

Red-eyed MoenkhausiaArea of originCommon in rivers, floodplains and slow-flowing areas of South America. Prefers clear, slightly acidic to neutral waters with plants and root areas.SpeciesThe genus Moenkhausia comprises over 60 species, many of which look very similar. The species frequently offered in the pet trade includeMoenkhausia sanctaefilomenae (red-eye tetra)Moenkhausia pittieri (diamond tetra)Moenkhausia costaeSocial behaviourVery peaceful Ideal for community tanks. Lively swimming behaviour, lots of movement. Forms loose shoals. Can occasionally nibble curiously at very long fins (e.g. gourami), but rarely aggressive.Keeping conditionsPlenty of free swimming space. Densely planted edge zones. Subdued light possible due to floating plants. Stable water values. Good filtration, moderate current. Cover recommended - bouncyBreedingPossible, but not easy. Free spawners. Eggs are scattered and sink to the bottom. Parents eat spawn → separate breeding tank required. Dark substrate prevents light damage to eggs. Feed fry with infusoria after hatching, later with Artemia naupliiSpecial featuresVery robust species → well suited for beginners. The characteristic "red eye" makes it unmistakable. Very active tetra that loves to swim. Perfect for larger community aquariums. Goes well with many peaceful fish species.ConclusionMoenkhausia sanctaefilomenae is a lively, attractive and very robust schooling fish that is ideal for community aquariums. With its striking red-eye colouring and its spirited but peaceful swimming behaviour, it brings life to the aquarium. It is easy to care for and therefore suitable for both beginners and experienced aquarists.If you have any questions or problems, our trained team at Zoo Roco is here to help. They can provide expert advice on all matters.

Swordtail profileArea of origin:Swordtails live in rivers, streams and slow-flowing waters in Central America. They often live in densely overgrown bank areas.Species:Mainly breeding forms of Xiphophorus helleri are offered in the pet trade. The species frequently offered in pet shops include (colour and fin variants)Red swordtailKoi swordtailTuxedo WagtailGreen swordtail (wild form)Highfin swordtailPineappleBlack MoscowMarigoldSocial behaviour:Swordtails are active and peaceful fish, but males can occasionally rival each other. In a well-structured aquarium, their behaviour is usually calm. They go well with many other peaceful species. Keeping conditions:A spacious, well-planted aquarium with free swimming space is important. Swordtails prefer harder water, a gentle current and regular water changes. A cover is also recommended - they can jump.Breeding:Swordtails are viviparous. Females give birth to 30-80 fry every 4-6 weeks. Fine plants are recommended as protection for the young, as the parents can eat their offspring. Breeding is very easy.Special features:Very robust and recommended species for beginners Males can "metamorphose" late - sometimes females develop a sword later Wide range of colours and varieties. Very reproductiveConclusion:The swordtail is an attractive, lively and uncomplicated aquarium fish that exhibits interesting social behaviour, especially in groups. Thanks to its robustness and easy breeding, it is ideal for community aquariums and also for beginners.If you have any questions or problems, our trained team at Zoo Roco is here to help. They can provide expert advice on all matters.

Herkunftsgebiet: Neuguinea: Küstenebene und anschliessendes inneres Tiefland zwischen Dyke Ackland Bay und Collingwood Bay an dem östlichen Ende von Neuguinea. Soziales Verhalten: Munterer, friedlicher Schwarmfisch Hälterungsbedingungen: Wie bei P. connieae angegeben. P. furcatus liebt dichte Bepflanzung der Becken. Zucht: Ähnelt stark der von P. connieae. Einzelheiten:ALLEN & CROSS (1982): Rainbowfishes of Australia and Papua New Guinea, T.F.H.-Verlag, beschreiben ein Zuchtbecken für die Pseudomugil-Arten folgendermassen: Ein Becken mit den Massen 40 x 25 x 25 cm reicht aus. Der Boden sollte mit einer dünnen Sandschicht bedeckt sein, einen Klumpen Javamoos und 2 oder 3 schwimmende Riccia-Polster sowie einen schwach arbeitenden Ausströmerstein enthalten. Man kann die Tiere sowohl paarweise als auch in Gruppen zur Zucht ansetzen. Ist das Männchen zu aggressiv, so gibt man 1 - 2 weitere Weibchen hinzu. Ein Ansatz im Schwarm bringt erheblich bessere Ergebnisse als paarweise Zucht. Die Tiere laichen gewöhnlich am Morgen ab. Die Eier haben Haftfäden und kleben an den Wasserpflanzen. Die Entwicklungszeit beträgt bei 25° C 15 - 20 Tage. Die Elterntiere werden herausgefangen (Laichräuber). Fütterung der Jungen mit Infusorien und Staubfutter. Besonderheiten: P. furcatus unterscheidet sich von P. connieae durch das Vorhandensein von gewöhnlich 8 - 9 (selten 7) segmentierten Strahlen in der zweiten Rücken-flosse (10 - 11, gelegentlich 9, selten 12 bei P. connieae) und durch je einen dorsalen und ventralen Rand in der Schwanzflosse. d von P. furcatus haben eine kräftig orangefarbene Brust, während sie bei P. connieae gelb ist.Quellennachweis: Mergus Atlas Band 2Für Fragen und Probleme steht Ihnen unser ausgebildetes Team im Zoo Roco zur Verfügung. Es kann Sie in allen Fragen fachgerecht beraten.

Boesemans rainbowfishArea of origin:Boeseman's Rainbowfish inhabits clear, slightly alkaline lakes and tributaries of West Papua. The water is hard, rich in oxygen and often very clear.Species:The Boesemans Rainbowfish belongs to the genus Melanotaenia. Other known species (not identical, but closely related): The species frequently offered in the pet trade include:Melanotaenia boesemani (Boeseman)Melanotaenia praecox (neon rainbowfish)Melanotaenia lacustrisMelanotaenia herbertaxelrodiGlossolepis incisus (red rainbowfish)Social behaviour:Very peaceful Ideal for larger community tanks. Strong mating behaviour, especially in the morning. Show very dynamic swimming behaviour in the shoal. Pair-forming during courtship, but shoaling speciesKeeping conditions:Lots of free swimming space. Dense marginal planting Clear, stable water parameters. Strong filtration and good oxygen supply. A cover is recommended – rainbowfish like to jump. Good light intensity promotes colourfulnessBreedingRelatively simple Free spawners with daily egg-laying over fine-leaved plants or spawning mops. Eggs stick to plants. Parents should be separated after spawning. Fry require the finest powdered food/infusoria, later Artemia nauplii. Hard, slightly alkaline water promotes breeding success.Special featuresOne of the most colourful freshwater fish of all. Colours become more intense with age. Particularly active and keen swimmers. Very social species – keeping them alone leads to stress. Good water quality is crucial for health.Conclusion:Boeseman's rainbowfish are colourful, lively and robust schooling fish that really come into their own in larger aquariums. If you provide sufficient space, clear water and varied feeding, you will have an impressive, active and peaceful aquarium inhabitant.If you have any questions or problems, our trained team at Zoo Roco is here to help. They can provide expert advice on all matters.